Saturday, September 30, 2006

Lahore

I took the 7am train from Lahore to Peshawar.

Friday, September 29, 2006

Peshawar

I spent the day dealing with matters relating to transportation, how to go home. Nothing quite worked out as planned.

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Peshawar

I decided last night to see whether I'd be able to follow the rules of Ramadan for a day.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Peshawar

I sleep quite poorly. I was awoken at 3:30am by a bang on my door, which I did my best to ignore. Just as I was about ready to go back to sleep it was followed up by another bang.

Monday, September 25, 2006

Peshawar

Camping may have been free but it wasn't without cost. It happened that the camping spot was in an area claimed by a jealous stray dog.

Chakdara

Ramadan started today. I was woken at about 4am to the sound of activity & the smell of pratha (fried nan) being cooked.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

Dir

I'd been somewhat dreading this section of the trip.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

Grom

After breakfast I walked up the ridge, a spur of the Hindu Kush, that separated the Rumbur valley from the Chitral valley.

Friday, September 22, 2006

Grom

This morning I awoke very early, before even the morning call for prayer rang out from the half a dozen mosques around Chitral at about 5:30am!

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Chitral

The previous day I decided to speed up my progress to the end of the trip.

Chitral

I awoke early, I'm getting myself ready to be able to cope with pre-dawn breakfasts when Ramadan starts in a couple of days time.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Koragh

Another awful road day, though fortunately mostly down.

Monday, September 18, 2006

Near Harchin

The road out of Teru was pretty bad. It was heavy going even though it was flat.

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Teru

The road continued up the narrow river valley as with the day before.

Saturday, September 16, 2006

Jhandrot

We are back cycling on a new road. It feels good to be back into 'discovery' mode, after the returning to Gilgit over the same road as we'd passed by bus.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Gilgit

I caught the first day of a polo tournament.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Gilgit

It was cloudy & surprisingly cool in the afternoon. It even rained, something that has hardly happened where I have been in months. I did little more than sit around the guesthouse reading.

I cycled 0 km

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Gilgit

It was cloudy & surprisingly cool in the afternoon. It even rained, something that has hardly happened where I have been in months. I did little more than sit around the guesthouse reading.

I cycled 0 km

Gilgit

The road continued as spectacularly as before, at times cutting through vertical solid rock. Tons of explosives must have been required to do this.

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Dambudas

I had a second attempt at visa renewal at the Deputy Commissioner's office in Skardu in the morning.

Monday, September 11, 2006

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Gilgit

Finally I didn't need to force myself to eat breakfast!

Saturday, September 9, 2006

Gilgit

I still felt affected by the after effects of the bug but began to get my appetite back.

Friday, September 8, 2006

Gilgit

I didn't go far today, not even leaving the dorm room until the Sun went down.

Thursday, September 7, 2006

Gilgit

After a relaxing rest day it was time to get back on the road though not too quickly.

Wednesday, September 6, 2006

Tuesday, September 5, 2006

Karimabad

We left Passu after a leisurely start to the day.

Monday, September 4, 2006

Passu

What a scenic day! It's hard coming up with suitably descriptive language for the road today.

Sunday, September 3, 2006

Barkhun Checkpost

We knew that we wouldn't be permitted to cycle from Tashkurgan to the Pakistani border at the Kunjerab pass & would need to take a bus.

Saturday, September 2, 2006

Tashkurgan

I got up early to fix a couple of bike problems. I was greeted by the Sun coming up from behind Kongur Shan.

Friday, September 1, 2006

Near Karakul

Not long after we broke camp at the police checkpoint at Ghez the road started to rise.