Sunday, September 24, 2006

Dir

I'd been somewhat dreading this section of the trip. I'd heard that the Lowari pass, that separated Chitral district from the lower lands to the South, was a pretty tough road. It was very steep & was in pretty bad condition. After the Shandur pass I was in no mood to cycle over a really bad road. In addition my legs were quite sore from the previous day's hike. I'd decided to try cycling up it & if it was too tough I'd hitch a lift.

The way to the base of the pass was quite pleasant, down mostly a verdant valley. Apart from the occasional group of boisterous boys who would demand pens or money & semi-seriously throw stones when their demands weren't me, worryingly many of them had slingshots.

As soon as I reached the base of the climb it became clear that it would be every bit as tough as the Shandur & more so. Though the road wasn't as bad it was steeper & the climb much longer. After struggling up for a while I'd had enough & stopped. Fairly soon after one of the old decorated Bedford trucks that haul loads over Pakistan stopped & picked me up. Initially they seemed to want money but this was forgotten when they dropped me off. I sat in the open-topped back on comfortable bags of straw & watched. There was a nice view from the back. Soon after setting off it clouded over, became quite cold & began to rain, towards the top of the 3118m pass it was slushy snow. The road was muddy. What would have been a very challenging climb on a sunny day looked pretty unpleasant. Even the truck took it slowly I was picked up at about 3pm & dropped off a few kilometres North of Dir, a distance of about 60km, at around 7:30pm.

It was completely dark on the road & fortunately a car sat behind me at I cycled down to Dir so that I could see the road. I was extremely relieved to check into a hotel. Though it hadn't been a long cycling day I was exhausted & asleep by shortly after 8:30pm.

I cycled 62 km in 5 hours & 28 minutes
Total so far 11465 km in 181 days

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