Monday, March 13, 2006


It was a bit of a late start. Gelibolu harbour was worth wandering around and I figured after such a long day on Sunday that I deserved a slower start.

The was spent on the Gallipoli peninsular. First I zipped (if this is possible on a loaded touring bike) down the main road that runs along the coast on the side of the Dardinels. The morning mist on the straight revealed the occasional freight vessel. The Sun came out and for the first time I was able to strip down to a t-shirt, at least for a short while. Near a town called Yalova (another one, they seem to pop up from time to time) I took a side road in the direction of the battlefield beaches. Traffic dropped to zero, other than me. It was nice not having to give way to anyone. there had been a lot of rainfall in the previous days.

I cycled past the old fields of slaughter on the Aegean side of the peninsular. I could see how so many lives could have been lost for so little effect. The high ground would have been difficult to gain. I cycled up to the peak that was briefly held by Allied forces, it was tough going & I had paved roads & no deadly fire coming down on me. I reached the top quite late, as the Sun was about to go down. The tour buses were leaving. I had the place to myself. The view was magnificent, to the narrows of the Hellespont on one side & the Aegan on the other. Monuments & momentos of the war were all around, including to the fallen from New Zealand.

I rolled into Echeabat quite late, too late really as the Sun was pretty much down & I had no lights. It had been raining for the hour it took me to get to town. I stayed at a rather bare but inexpensive hostel. It was nice to get a good shower, the best since Amsterdam, & a decent toilet. I confess to purloining a roll of toilet paper. Saying 'purloining' makes it seem less dishonest, & besides it wasn't that cheap.

I cycled 103km in 6 hours & 24 minutes.

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